Making My Good Life

(Spoiler: because it’s amazing)

As an American, when I picture the UK I think about Buckingham Palace or Big Ben or the London Eye. Through my travels I’ve come to find that what I appreciate most about the UK is not those things at all but the countryside. It’s green and rolling and has just as much beautiful architecture and sense of history, and oftentimes it’s much more affordable than London. I’ve made it my mission to go to more than just London anytime I go back to the UK.

On my latest trip to the UK, I added three new places that I’ve explored outside of London. I went to York, the Lake District, and Chatsworth House. Chatsworth House had been on my bucket list for a long time. I can’t remember ever not knowing about Elizabeth Bennet, Mr. Darcy, and Pemberley. I grew up to the sounds of Jane Austen BBC adaptations in the background. Chatsworth House is the inspiration behind and filming location of Pemberley. When I found out I was going to be traveling right past, I added it to my itinerary right away.

If you’re not familiar with Pemberley or Pride and Prejudice, that’s totally okay. I think Chatsworth House is still worth a visit. It’s home to the Dukes and Duchesses of Devonshire and is one of the great houses of the UK. It’s nestled in the countryside by the nearby Peak District which is essentially a national park.

On the drive to the house, you pass through several charming villages with pubs and churches and farmland. The estate of Chatsworth is absolutely massive and to get to the house you have to drive around the property, which is no hardship with the views. You then descend a hill and catch your first glimpse of the stately house. There’s a river that runs through, and deer and sheep graze freely on the property. When we went in the late afternoon, the sun was shining off the many windows on the face of the building, creating golden light.

We booked our tickets ahead of time which were timed entry and included parking and access to the gardens and house. There are several types of tickets that cater to different visiting experiences. I would recommend doing both the house and the garden; it’s just so beautiful and you don’t want to miss anything. One mistake we made was that we didn’t arrive until about an hour and a half before closing. Do not do that! Give yourself plenty of time to spend in both the house and in the gardens.

The house is like nothing we have in the US. It has a beautiful chapel, a grand hall with a sweeping staircase, a massive library, and a sculpture gallery. The only complaint my group and I had about the house experience, other than not having enough time, was that the reading guides in the rooms were not necessarily about the history of the house or design of the room. The current Duke and Duchess have a massive art collection, much of it modern, and that was more the focus of the house. Modern art isn’t my cup of tea so that was a bit of a let down. However, many of the rooms had docents who would answer whatever questions you had and also gave insight into the house and its history. Other stately homes I’ve been to, like Blenheim Palace, had audio guides but this house did not.

What I did learn about the house and the family was pretty interesting. Some notable figures include Georgiana Cavendish, the Duchess of Devonshire, whose life is shown in the film The Duchess, and also the Kennedys have ties to the family. Kathleen Kennedy, JFK’s younger sister, married the heir to the dukedom but sadly they both died in the 1940s. Even though I didn’t love the modern art, there was a little back room with Picasso sketches that I loved. Also the house had an amazing gift shop which I normally detest. The house also has a lot of activities and amenities that we didn’t have time for. There are several cafes and restaurants, a pub, and a farm shop that we didn’t check out.

While the house was beautiful and would have made the trip worth it on its own, for us the star of the show was the gardens. There’s a cascade fountain from the 1700s, a massive rock garden and ponds, a maze, a serpentine hedge, greenhouses after greenhouses, a nearly 300-foot jet fountain, and of course the ponds where Mr. Darcy got out of the water in all his glory. All of those are set in the most beautiful aspect including green lawns and hills with sheep grazing peacefully. It was just completely idyllic.

Chatsworth House is a must-do for me. Whether you’re there for a Jane Austen pilgrimage or just wanting to see a stately home, it’s a can’t miss. For me, it encompasses what I love about England: history, architecture, an appreciation for the land, and a timelessness that can’t be repeated.